A taste of the philippines

2 min read

A TRIO OF BIG, BOLD FLAVOURS DOMINATES THIS ARCHIPELAGO NATION’S UNIQUE CUISINE

Sisig, a dish of pork, calamansi, vinegar, soy sauce and chillis, is at its best when topped with an egg yolk
IMAGES: ALAMY; RUTH CALDER-POTTS

Filipino cuisine is dominated by the bold balance of three elements of taste: salty, sour and sweet. These flavours stem from a medley of cultural, historical and environmental influences that have shaped Filipino culinary traditions for centuries.

Salt is used both to highlight other flavours, but also as a standalone taste. Filipino soy sauce is extra salty, while snacks like chicharron (fried pork belly) and puffed fish crackers are loaded with it. Bowls of sawsawan (Filipino soy dressing) and dishes of bagoong (a condiment of fermented fish, krill or shrimp paste) are both used as table seasonings.

Salt’s also an important part of native Filipino heritage. In the Bohol region, they make a salt called asín tibuok, which is sharp, earthy and smoky.

Meanwhile, jolting acidity isn’t only acceptable in Filipino cooking —it’s key. Vinegars, calamansi (a local citrus fruit) and tamarind are vital, used to enhance flavours, brighten up heavy dishes and tenderise meats.

They can also be used in palate cleansers, such as atchara (pickled green papaya). The high acidity also has the purpose of preserving food in the tropical climate, so dishes such as adobo (a vinegary stew) and sinigang (tamarindspiked soup) can be left out all day without spoiling.

Filipinos also have a very sweet tooth. You’ll find American doughnut shops and fast food chains scattered all over, and there are local cake shops on every corner. Traditional sweets like leche flan (creme caramel), halo-halo (shaved ice), biko (sticky rice cake), banana cue (fried bananas) and bibingka (baked rice cake) are filled with sugar, but it’s also used in savoury dishes like adobo, tocino (cured pork), longanisa (s