Greek islands

35 min read

From the gastronomic isles of the Cyclades to the enigmatic ruins of the Dodecanese, each of the six main Greek island groups has its own distinct character. Choose your own adventure and discover them yourself

IMAGES: ISSY CROKER; AWL IMAGES

DODECANESE

In the southeast Aegean, farthest from the mainland and often in sight of the Turkish coast, the Dodecanese only joined Greece in 1947 after decades of occupation. It’s this turbulent history that has given these islands their striking individualism — and what sets their culture and architecture apart

WALK ON A VOLCANO

According to Greek mythology, it was Poseidon who seized a chunk of Kos and hurled it on top of a fiery Titan called Polyvotis — creating the volcanic island of Nisyros, with its enormous, sulphurous caldera. The volcano is active, but travellers can still walk across its warm crust — it last erupted in 1888 and is carefully monitored. It can be visited on a day trip from nearby Kos, but it’s worth sticking around to explore the island’s little capital, Mandraki, with its colourful houses and Byzantine churches; the nearby thermal spring at Loutra; and the lofty village of Emporios, with its ruined Byzantine castle, natural cave sauna and mesmerising views over the caldera. nisyrosgeopark.gr

WANDER A GHOST VILLAGE

For centuries, the residents of Tilos built their homes inland, safe from marauders. But in the 1950s, when the villagers of Mikro Chorio found their wells running dry, they decided to relocate to the island’s port area — taking their roofs, doors and windows with them. Until recently, the only signs that Mikro Chorio ever existed were the whitewashed church and fawn-coloured stone walls, which snake over the hillside and act as a playground for goats. Now, though, one ruined home has been renovated and turned into an atmospheric summer bar. From 11pm when it opens, a shuttle bus runs here from nearby Livadia — and the sound of chatter and clinking glasses once again fills this ghostly village.

REACH NEW HEIGHTS

For a long time, the island of Kalymnos was famous for one thing: sponge-diving. But in 1996, a new focus emerged, when Italian rock climber Andrea di Bari, on holiday with his family, observed the island’s towering limestone cliffs. Before long, this isle emerged as a capital for climbing. Kalymnos now has over 4,000 routes for all abilities, and companies such as Climb in Kalymnos offer dedicated beginners’ courses. But it’s not all about sports here, as the island has retained its old-world charm. Wander the ruins of the Byzantine town of Kastro, high on the mountainside, or head east to Vathys and its fjord-like valley, flanked by fragrant citrus groves. climbinkalymnos.com

EXPLORE A WOODLAND OASIS

The island of Rho