Critic Tony Naylor and Olive reader Jim Lockwood compare notes on this contemporary Mexican restaurant, recently opened in Manchester
Our pro says
Naturally, I keep a running Crispy Potato Chart in my head, ranking northern restaurants that have excelled in the field of twice- and thrice-cooked potatoes. Madre’s papas potatoes with garlic crema: steamed, dried, crushed and fried to create crunchy, winningly buttery uber-chips, bear comparison with my No 1, the superlative spuds previously served at Norland’s The Moorcock Inn. Compared to its elegantly seasoned guacamole or the distinctive, authentic nixtamalized corn flavour of its tacos, they may seem peripheral in assessing Madre’s Mexican cred. But finished with roasted habanero vinegar, they are testament to the kitchen’s fastidiousness.
A chic space with a warm energy (its design channelling a certain upscale 70s beachside nightclub feel), Madre, abuzz even on Wednesday night, could coast on vibe. But, no. In its chatty, super-efficient service, on-point cocktails and food – from the opening aerated chicharrones (pork scratchings) to spot-on churros – this is a polished experience.
I would quibble about the wood-grilled lamb cutlets. The pistachio-crusted lamb itself was terrific (handsomely charred, pink within), but the accompanying bed of avocado salsa somewhat muted the meat’s flavour impact.
Elsewhere, it was all thoughtful detail: punctuating grilled cheese tacos with salsa macha’s nutty heat, or marinating avocadoes in lime juice, so when tempura fried – rendering the avo ludicrously creamy – that richness is modulated by strident citrus and further taco garnishes of red cabbage and chipotle aïoli. Madre’s slow-cooked beef shin birria tacos, subtly enhanced with Oaxaca cheese, remain a highlight. All bold, rounded heat and beefy depth. Madre is that rare restaurant: a fun night out where the food excels.
BILL FOR TWO, INCLUDING SERVICE: £121.95
ATMOSPHERE: 8
SERVICE: 8
FOOD: 8
TOTAL: 24/30
Our punter says
As we entered Manchester’s newest Mexican restaurant, we were greeted by an amazing mix of aromas from the open kitchen grill. First impressions were good. There was a warm welcome
