Recreate a plate from the British outpost of this modern French restaurant
Recipes YANNICK ALLÉNO and ANDY COOK
No one does comfort like a five-star hotel, and French chef Yannick Alléno has settled into the Four Seasons in London with the full weight of his 15 Michelin stars. Pavyllon (an outpost of the Paris restaurant of the same name) is run by executive chef Andy Cook when Yannick is away. There’s a huge counter overlooking the open kitchen – sit here for the drama. Try the curry man’ouché; the warm potatoes glazed with lovage mayo, with kombu broth, seaweed and cucumber; and the lamb (recipe, right). Plus, Bar Antoine’s cocktail list by Michele Lombardi can be enjoyed with a bar menu. pavyllonlondon.com
Lamb, shiso sauce and anchoïade
SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT CHILLING COOK 20 MINS | MORE EFFORT
4 lamb cutlets, bones trimmed of fat
olive oil, for drizzling
knob of butter
1 thyme sprig
1 garlic clove, unpeeled and squashed
1/2 lemon, zested and juiced
Espelette pepper and fleur de sel, to serve
ANCHOÏADE
75g anchovies in salt
50g Kalamata olives (undyed, they will look purplish), pitted
1/2 garlic clove 75ml extra-virgin olive oil squeeze of lemon
SHISO PASTE
100g shiso leaves 50ml mirin
2 tbsp soy sauce
500ml very strong beef stock
1 To make the anchoïade, rinse the anchovies thoroughly and dry. Rinse and dry the olives. Peel the garlic. Blend the anchovies and olives in a blender with the garlic and olive oil until it is smooth. Season with a dash of lemon juice and transfer to a container. Chill the mixture in the fridge until you need it – it’s best to make it the day before if you can. This makes more than you’ll need but will keep for up to a week.
2 To make the sauce, use a sharp knife to remove the stalks and ribs from the shiso leaves, blanch them in boiling salted water for 2 mins, cool in iced water and then squeeze out the excess water and chop roughly. Blend the blanched shiso with the mirin and soy until it is very smooth. Bring the beef stock to a boil, then simmer until it reduces by about two-thirds and the flavour gets stronger – it needs to be thick and glossy. Stir through the shiso purée and set aside until needed. It will keep chilled for up to a day.
3 To finish, season the lamb cutlets well. Heat the olive oil in a pan and cook the lamb cutlets until browned all over. Add the butter, thyme and garlic to the pan, and baste the cutlets in the foaming butter until cooked to your liking – I recommend that the lamb is cooked medium. Reheat the sauce if needed and spoon over four hot plates (you might not need all of it),
