Renovation
A centuries-old tradition, vertically hung tiling protects old buildings and, with its mellow colours and gentle unevenness, is an attractive feature worth preserving, explains Douglas Kent
The tradition of using plain roof tiles and the patterned variations of these on the vertical to clad walls and other upright surfaces dates back to the 17th century in south-east England. Vertically hung tiling offers weather protection, but also provides an aesthetically pleasing covering, so roof tiles were adapted for the purpose, particularly for the upper storeys of timber-framed buildings. Found also on brick buildings, vertical tiling spread to other parts of the country in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Clay tiles were traditionally fixed to laths – thin strips of wood – attached to the building, and wooden tile pegs were driven through between the laths, which were spaced closely enough to grip them as they were forced in.
Repair to vertical tiles
The requirements for vertically hung tiling are similar to those for tiled roofs. Broken or missing tiles will, from time to time, need reinstating. This entails removing the tiles directly above them, top downwards over a V-shaped area, and inserting suitable replacements. Fixings into existing battens should be made using new holes or larger diameter screws or nails. Pointing or mortar fillets will also need attention periodically.
New tiles should usually match the type, colour, texture, size and thickness of existing ones. Handmade clay tiles are available and their substitution with concrete tiles is undesirable as, too, is replacement with machine-pressed ones. When completely re-covering a wall, reuse the maximum number of old tiles, and repairs or retiling should be entrusted to a reputable roofer.
Should bats be present, remember to seek advice from the relevant statutory national conservation organisation before embarking on any work that might disturb a roost.
Fixing vertical tiles
Work should generally be like-for-like, using, if appropriate, riven laths, wooden pegs and lime mortar – in which tiles were often bedded – rather than sawn battens and nails. All vertical tiles should be secured in place with two pegs or corrosion-resistant nails or screws. Screw-fixing or the use of a nail gun is advisable when hanging tiles on a wall with fragile internal finishes or infill panels. Where tiling a brick wall, corrosion-resistant nails can be secured to timber pads set into mortar joints or into drilled and plugged holes. It may be appropriate to take the opportunity to introduce insulation behind battens when re-tiling a surface.
Vertical counter-battens should be used to support battens where they are fixed to boarding or other flat elevations to give adequate ventilation and enable the drainage of any moisture that may penetrate t
