Arctic paradise

9 min read

CRUISING

Marina Guedes sails into the Arctic Circle and discovers the timeless beauty of Norway’s west coast and Lofoten Islands

Considered by many to be one of the most beautiful places to sail in the world, it is hard to say exactly when I first heard of the Lofoten Islands. I’ll never forget, however, the strong impression photographs of that stunning place in the north-west of Norway had on me. Looking at the images of steep rocky mountains plunging into the dark blue sea planted the initial seeds for my desire to visit the archipelago once occupied by skilled Viking sailors.

To my delightful surprise, Yves Baulac –not one of those ancient Scandinavians, but a non-stopping French adventurer who I met a few years ago while cruising in the South Pacific–told me he was soon heading to Northern Europe.

I could not miss that unique opportunity, I thought, especially aboard his 39.5 ft. aluminium Ovni monohull. So, I quickly told my friend that if they needed an extra hand (two, actually!), it would be a pleasure to come along.

Although I originally come from South America and have lived in Italy for the last three years, a cold climate is my favourite. Thus, swapping an upcoming 40°C (104°F) ‘melting’ summer to a spot where the temperature doesn’t go above 20°C (68°F), seemed like a perfect deal to me.

Our coastal adventure started in Ålesund, a touristic municipality with interesting Art Nouveau architecture. Logistics-wise, it was very convenient due to its nearby airport that connects flights from the capital, Oslo, where the crew– myself and Philippe Cottereau–had flown into the day before.

Henningsvær in the Lofoten Islands offers good protection in bad weather due to its sheltered harbour
Andreas Werth/Alamy
Harbour at Sør-Gjæslingan
Marina Guedes
Heading north on the 39.5ft aluminium Ovni Orionde
Marina Guedes
Orionde’s skipper, Yves Baulac and crew Philippe Cottereau
Marina Guedes

Orionde, my beautiful floating home for the next three weeks, was already docked downtown. Yves had left France more than a month before. He sailed with a different crew, slowly making his way to latitude 62°N, where the three of us caught up.

Philippe is an experienced sailor who has known our skipper for many years. They’ve been on various voyages together, and even co-own another yacht in their home country.

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