Our friends in the north

7 min read

Andria Massey enjoys a return visit to the beautiful dales and moors of North Yorkshire

Classic panorama across the rolling hills of Swaledale
incamerastock/Alamy

ON OUR FINAL TRIP OF 2022, we decided to revisit North Yorkshire to find glorious autumn colours to photograph.

We booked a stay at Cote Ghyll Caravan & Camping Park, in a lovely location just outside Osmotherley, on the edge of the North York Moors National Park.

We always try to use public transport to explore the area, but this was rather impossible here, so instead we took to the road in the car.

Bedale beckons

Our first stop was in Bedale, a market town seven miles from Northallerton, in search of morning coffee. We paused at The North End café, then strolled along the main street, with its fine Georgian architecture. One such building is the 18th-century Leech House, in Bridge Street – as the name suggests, this was originally a store for apothecary’s leeches.

With more to see and limited time, we returned to the car and headed to Leyburn, a lovely market town in Wensleydale, the perfect base for the Yorkshire Dales.

Leyburn has lots of free parking, making it a vehicle-friendly place to visit. Known as the Town for All Seasons, it has spectacular views of the countryside, so it’s great for walking and sightseeing. It also has unusual local shops and cafés, traditional pubs, and a weekly market on Fridays.

After lunch, we headed to Aysgarth Falls, with a detour to Ulshaw Bridge, a charming little hamlet that derives its name from the (very photogenic) medieval stone bridge spanning the River Ure.

Then it was on to Middleham, to see the castle. Middleham lies between the Ure and the River Cover. The magnificent castle has a historic keep, a 13th-century chapel and a 14th-century gatehouse. Steeped in history, Middleham is best known as the childhood home of Richard III.

Now the town is also known for its rich racing heritage, since Isaac Cape set up as a trainer in 1765. These days, racing is also the biggest local employer (tourism is the second largest).

Falling for Yorkshire

Our final stop of the day, Aysgarth Falls, has been a tourist attraction for over 200 years, visited by Wordsworth and sketched by Turner. In 1991, it provided a dramatic film set for Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves.

We stopped in the car park above the Upper Force and walked down the steep road to the falls – but there is also parking available in the National Park Visitor Centre, a little bit further on.

The mighty falls have been carved out of limestone over aeons, with water cascading down over broad steps on

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