A drive into history

8 min read

Ancient Northumberland offers Sue Greenwood an intriguing tour through history, and views across to the North Sea

Explore Hadrian’s Wall and great views at Winshield Crags

A SHORT BREAK touring Northumberland seemed an excellent way to make good use of a week’s holiday in mid-summer.

We decided on one campsite in the south of the county and another further north, so we could visit parts of this beautiful region that we had not previously seen.

Our first stop was Well House, a Caravan and Motorhome Club CL at Colwell, near Hexham. Although this site is tucked away, it makes a great base for exploring the area, and provides really amazing views over the countryside. Late afternoons were spent watching the swifts swooping and flying over the fields right in front of us.

We drove to Hexham on the Saturday morning. This fine old market town dates all the way back to Anglo-Saxon times and is rich in fascinating history.

As always, whenever you visit a busy place, there are the practicalities of parking to deal with. We found a spot in the Wentworth Car Park and began our explorations by venturing up Hallstile Bank, a steep but mercifully short walk leading directly into the Market Place. There was a bustling Farmers’ Market on the go here and local producers were displaying a huge range of foodstuffs on stalls around the market square, known as The Shambles, which dates back to the 18th century.

Our eyes were soon drawn to Hexham Abbey, alongside the marketplace. Sadly, scaffolding was covering the front of the building when we visited, but this did not diminish its imposing presence.

Historic Hexham Abbey

The Abbey has been an important place of worship since a Benedictine monastery was founded here in the seventh century. Over the years, it has seen battles, fires, rebuilding and remodelling, and is now a splendid example of a medieval church, in the heart of this charming town.

We wandered into the lovely Abbey Grounds and Sele Park, passing Grade II listed Hexham House, with its beautiful formal garden. There are woodland walks, a fine bandstand and parks to enjoy, all within a few minutes of the town centre.

Strolling through town, we discovered Old Church Chare, leading to St Mary’s Chare. These narrow lanes between the houses retain their ancient name, ‘chare’, meaning an alleyway.

This particular passage incorporates the 12th-century remains of St Mary’s Church, the main church for the town before the Abbey was established. Nowadays, there’s a selection of independent shops and cafés to be enjoyed in this surprisingly peaceful spot, close to the

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