KIPPERS & CASTLES (but no cricket…)
Having fallen for the dramatic Northumberland scenery in their favourite TV shows, Colin and Tracey Williams found the real thing even better
FROM SOUTH WALES, it seems a long way to the Northumberland coast. It is a seven-hour drive, so we set off early and broke the trip with plenty of stops.
Our interest in the region was originally sparked by watching the TV series Vikings, which is set there, and, of course, long-running ITV crime drama Vera. We had been planning to visit since before the pandemic and at last, we had time for the trip.
Although we had planned a two-week visit, we had to change those plans and settle for one week instead. It proved to be a very memorable week!
We travelled to Proctors Stead Caravan Park, near Craster, and booked in for five nights. This is a quiet, well-run campsite, with great staff and a reception well-stocked with essentials.
Local specialities
Proctors Stead is just an easy one-mile walk from the coastal village of Craster. You might have heard of this place before, home of the famous Craster smoked kippers.
Craster is a picturesque fishing village, with a harbour and a lifeboat station, as well as a pub, a café and a smokery for those wonderful kippers.
The village provides superb views of Dunstanburgh Castle to the north. When you visit, parking is available at the Quarry car park, on the road into Craster. This is a couple of hundred yards from the centre, and accessed via a dedicated pathway.
We are National Trust members and in Northumberland, there is a plethora of NT properties to explore – we were spoiled for choice. Of course, the first and easiest one to visit was Dunstanburgh Castle, which is on the coast north of Craster.
This is a straight, flat walk, about a mile along the wild and beautiful coastline of Northumberland.
The castle was built on a very grand scale in the 14th century by the Earl of Lancaster, then the wealthiest nobleman in England. He came to a bad end, being executed for his part in the rebellion against Edward II.
The castle later came into the ownership of John of Gaunt, son of Edward III and father of Henry IV. In the 15th century, it was the scene of fierce fighting during the Wars of the Roses.
Today, enough of the ruins remain to show the enormous scale of this castle, and to offer access to the top of one of the main entrance towers. From there, you can enjoy wonderful views across the north and the south coast.
There is much for history buffs to enjoy here and if, like me, you are also keen on birdwatching, take the time to
