And where better to enjoy getting back in the saddle than idyllic Ile de Ré, off France’s west coast? Elaine Ormerod reports
On a rally in Germany many years ago, I met Joyce, aged 75, who was still riding her bike, together with husband Ian, of a similar age. Having always wanted a bike but never owned or learned how to ride one, I did a quick calculation and realised I still had 20-25 years of cycling opportunities! Inspired by Joyce, I bought a bike and at the age of 55, proceeded to learn riding skills. I’m still not a confident cyclist, so I look for off-road routes where possible. When Joe suggested we visit Ile de Ré, a place we’d been to before, I agreed readily, as we could see the island from a different perspective using its network of cycle routes.
Our tour began when we drove through La Rochelle to the toll bridge (costing €8) which links this strange, distinctively shaped island to the mainland. There’s one place where the island is barely 50m wide.
Our campsite was almost at the farthest point of the island, at Les Portes-en-Ré. After a friendly check-in at Camping Seasonova, we were left to choose a pitch.
We got chatting to a couple from New Zealand, who advised that the far end of the campsite was more open and sunnier than where they were under the trees. So we sun-starved Brits chose an open pitch and set up – and then the heatwave started. We’d arrived quite late, so exploring was left until the following day.
Whitewashed houses
The charming village of Les Portes-en-Ré is a short walk from the campsite. We were greeted by narrow streets lined with whitewashed houses displaying smart green doors and shutters.
The pretty streets led us to the central square, where the daily market was clearly in progress. We found clothes stalls, fruit and vegetable stalls, and one that only sold olives. We bought raspberries and blueberries from a stall, cheese, and meat from a nearby butcher’s, and then popped into the small, well-stocked Carrefour Contact supermarket – where among other items, they sold Jacob’s cream crackers!
In one corner of the square, we came across the pretty whitewashed church of St Eutrope, which was originally built back in the 16th century, subsequently damaged during the French wars of religion, and then restored to its former glory in the late 17th century.
There are several splendid beaches nearby, which can be accessed from the vi
