NAILING IT
Ed shows you how to strip and reassemble this suspension component
EXPLAINER WHAT GOES WRONG AND WHY?
Simple and durable, MacPherson struts have been an industry standard for 60-odd years now. They're installed and removed in one piece. All work is carried out on the bench. The strut is a spring and damper in one, which rotates so the front wheels can steer. It pivots on a ball bearing at the top and a balljoint at the bottom. Balljoints wear out routinely; top mounts less so – but do examine the rubber bonding. Replace if stretched, split or hardened. They come with a new bearing fitted and aren't necessarily expensive. Bump stops are fitted onto the damper rods and are often in a poor state or missing altogether. They're designed to be a progressive part of the springing toward the end of the suspension travel, so they are a wearing item.
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GET GOING STRIPDOWN
Measure camber
Wheel camber's important. The wheel carrier may be held to the strut base by an eccentric bolt: the setting's lost on removal. Measure from top and bottom of wheel rim to a plumb line.
Hub carrier
… then remove the nuts from the bolts holding the hub to the strut. Eccentric bolt: you could punchmark the bolt head and strut before starting, for ease of reassembly. Lightly support the hub.
Spacer ring
Mark the top spacer (if fitted) so it goes back on the three top studs the same way it came off them. If angled, it controls wheel alignment. Fit spring compressors, one to each side of the spring.
Slacken top nut
Slacken – but do not remove – the top central nut of the strut, often hidden under a cover. A lightduty impact wrench is ideal. Otherwise grip the square top of the central rod and use a spanner.
Top nuts
Mark one top stud for identical orientation during reassembly. There may be an angled spacer between the top mount bearing and the strut tower. Unscrew all nuts and remove the washers.
