Caroline Mills tours the Lighthouse Way on Spain’s north-west coast, to discover a quiet landscape of immense beauty
Duration
Five days
When
May 2023
Why?
Following the Camiño dos Faros is a superb way to explore Galicia
“ It’s enormous!” I muttered as I tiptoed over the smooth boulders by the sea. I was on the Camiño dos Faros, the Lighthouse Way, a route stringing together a festoon of lighthouses in Galicia, Spain’s north-westernmost province.
While, indeed, many of the lighthouses are colossal coastal gems, I was actually referring to an Iberian emerald lizard, gleaming in the sunshine as it warmed itself on beachside rocks at Baroña. It was one of many encounters with the natural world on my journey that showcased just some of Galicia’s beautiful scenery.
Coastal beacons The Lighthouse Way extends for more than 730 miles (1175km), from Galicia’s boundary with the region of Asturias in the north-east to the country border with Portugal in the south-west. There are 44 lighthouses to see; I visited around half as I followed the length of the coast. Most are sited on remote headlands, offering the chance to explore quiet landscapes, each with its own distinct character.
My tour began at Ribadeo, where the Ria de Ribadeo divides Galicia from Asturias. On a tiny island, accessed by a short bridge, stands the Faro de Isla Pancha. This distinctive, black and white striped structure stands apart from the former lighthouse-keeper’s cottage – which these days, is a welcoming taverna overlooking the sea.
Slate rocks smothered in hottentot figs lead down to a little bay with clear water for bathing. There are gentle mountain views and plenty of opportunities for coastal walks on the grassy headland approaching the island. I was in awe of the wildflowers carpeting the shallow clifftop, including ox-eye daisies, rock sea-spurrey, creeping gromwell and capeweed.
My route flanked the 17-mile beach to Foz, where the River Masma creates soft, shimmering sandbanks. Smart villas and balconied flats overlook the beachside promenade.
It was Sunday afternoon and Foz families had turned out in numbers to visit local restaurants, cafés and ice cream parlours, creating a vibrant, but very relaxed seaside atmosphere.
Beaches and bays My drive continued along country lanes passing countless beaches; there’s a traffic-free cycle track that follows the sea, too.
At San Ciprián (ak
