Starry, starry nights

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CULTURE

In RedCarpetOscars, fashion writer Dijanna Mulhearn reflects on the power of iconic Oscars looks, the people who made them and the legacy they left behind

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Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy and Grace Kelly in Helen Rose (1956)
Cindy Crawford in Versace, with Richard Gere (1991)
Diahann Carroll in Scaasi (1969)
Lupita Nyong’o in Prada (2014)

A successful red-car pet moment can catapult an actor into superstar status, propel a fashion label into a desired household name, result in lucrative commercial contracts and secure the next starring role. From Barbra Streisand’s diaphanous Scaasi pantsuit in 1969 and Cher’s jaw-dropping Bob Mackie ensemble of 1986 to Uma Thurman’s ethereal Prada gown of 1995, Julia Roberts’ vintage Valentino in 2001 and Angelina Jolie’s leg-baring Versace dress of 2012, media coverage increases the public awareness of those in the limelight, and producers look to cues of mass appeal when casting their next big hit.

However, there is a great deal more simmering beneath the glamorous image. The artistic expression inherent in the film industry cultivates the perfect vehicle to represent, reflect and challenge society, and the Oscars red carpet is the ultimate stage. Over the years, the shapes, colours and textures of the outfits have demonstrated the zeitgeist of each era: the restraint necessary during the Great Depression and Second World War in the 1930s and 1940s; and the frothy femininity of the 1950s, designed to demonstrate prosperity and re-establish gender roles following the war. The rebelliousness of Julie Christie’s youthquake-inspired minidress of 1967 shifted red-carpet fashion from privilege to personal expression, sparking a new generation of independent actors who began to challenge traditional values and the dress codes that embodied them. The relatively revealing outfits of the freewheeling 1970s followed the example set by Cher and found their way on to the red car pet; and the ostentatious 1980s celebrated conspicuous success, while the fairy-tale marriage of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer inspired a slew of red-carpet dresses mimicking the grandiosity of the new princess’s wedding gown. After a period of eclectic and often self-designed dresses by leading stars, the rise of critical red-car pet commentary in the

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