STYLE
We’ve always known that style has no expiration date. But is the fashion world finally catching up? Sarah Bailey finds out
Want to know my favourite catwalk trend this season?
Midlife women on the runway. I’m not talking about a victory parade of super models, poured into bodycon like some walking billboard for the miracles of the anti-ageing industry. No, what has made my heart sing is seeing women striding forth looking elegantly powerful and purposeful. Take 56-year-old Suzi de Givenchy marching out at Helmut Lang; Kristen McMenamy (age 59) in badass mode at Vivienne Westwood. But, really, the best examples had to be at Miu Miu, where Kristen Scott Thomas (63) walked in a jewel-encrusted overcoat, looking like she was about to boss some movie-industry pay negotiation. Spanish actress Angela Molina (68) rocked a cardigan dress with joyous aplomb, and most fabulous of all was the appearance of Qin Huilan, a 70-year-old Shanghai-based doctor, client and superfan (apparently she was cast after the Miu Miu team noticed her appreciation posts on Instagram). All in all, the very embodiment of style and substance.
Perhaps it should come as no surprise that this presentation of female sartorial empowerment for women of all ages – and professions – was envisaged by Miuccia Prada, the 74-year-old co-chief executive and co-creative director of Italian luxury brand Prada (currently enjoying a period of huge market-bucking success: sister label Miu Miu reported its best year ever in 2023, with retail up 58%). As all of us devotees know, Mrs P does it all dressed in neon, diamonds, socks, puff balls and kitten heels, simply refusing to dial down her quirky style persona because she’s a septuagenarian.
Why is this worth remarking on? Well, because women may be living longer, and having longer working lives (as it happens, midlife women have much more spending power than younger generations), yet the fashion industry – from high-end to high street – can feel like an arena in which older women are made to feel invisible, marginalised, even unwelcome. Hands up the last time you saw a model who looked over 40 in an ecommerce image on a mainstream fashion site? That’s right – almost never.
Sarah Bailey loves seeing midlife women on the catwalk
Sure, we’ve seen high-profile, headline-garnering casting of older icons in glossy campaigns in recent seasons: Maggie Smith as the Loewe woman (love), ditto Mary Berry bringing her sparkle to Burberry. And a shout-out is due to Phoebe Philo, who pioneered age-positive advertising when she cast writer Joan Didion in Céline’s 2015 glossy spreads. Though it’s worth pointing out that these star older ambassadors tend to be both white and thin
