Where can you leave your boat in the Caribbean where it will be safe and not break the bank? Jenevora Swann has a tempting option
Rio Dulce in Guatemala has an impressive reputation for being hurricane-free. Even the US Coast Guard says it’s the safest place in the western Caribbean for boats during hurricane season.
The marinas and anchorages are situated at the juncture between two lakes, 20 -
miles from the sea as the crow flies. This distance keeps the area protected from
tidal surge and the mountains along the northern Honduran coast make it almost impossible
for hurricane winds to enter.
This was the case in November 2020, when Hurricanes Eta and Iota pummelled most of Central America causing flooding and catastrophic landslides and mudflows. The boats hiding out in Rio Dulce remained well-protected from the winds, it was just a rise in the river level from unusually heavy rains that caused minor damage to a few boats when flood waters rose above the pontoons.
Many cruisers return to Guatemala each season to enjoy Rio Dulce’s freshwater river with its extensive selection of marinas, mooring facilities and active liveaboard community. The cost of boat maintenance is significantly lower than the rest of the Caribbean and skilled labour is also inexpensive and surprisingly good.
Rio Dulce wasn’t on our radar until our insurance company refused to cover us for any named windstorms in the Caribbean or North America. Investigating online forums, we weren’t alone in our plight, many others had similar issues; all looking for alternative hurricane holes to store or moor their boat.
When friends we were sailing with told us about Rio Dulce and its popularity, we didn’t hesitate in booking into a marina. Not knowing anything about Guatemala, we were in for a real treat.
All bar one
Reaching this safe-haven involves crossing a half-mile wide moving sand bar at the mouth of Rio Dulce at Livingston which can be a challenge. The deepest route each season is a hotly debated topic, with waypoints analysed, cross-referenced and shared. It’s fine for shallow draught vessels, but boats drawing 1.82m (6ft) should cross on a rising tide, while those with a 2.13m (7ft) draught are advised to choose the highest tide of the month and may require careening by a local boat to get across the bar safely.
Clearing in to Guatemala at Livingston is an easy process, especially using the services of a local agent, such as Raul Valiz at Servamar. However, the current
