Unmythable anchorages

15 min read

Want to know where Odysseus washed up at the end of his epic voyage home? Fear not, you can anchor off many mythical spots on his voyage. Here is a selection

In association with Navily

Dexia Bay, Ithaca, where Odysseus finally landed after his troublesome voyage. Dexia Bay is just to the right of the settlement of Vathi

The Iliad and the Odyssey are two of the great epics of Greek mythology and in many respects the Odyssey – which relates the journey home – set the stage for modern day chartering in Greece. Think about it; Odysseus’ little jaunt back from Troy has all the ingredients of a classic charter. The trip begins as a high spirited affair that soon gets derailed in part due to unforeseen consequences as a result of an impromptu barbecue. Meanwhile a visit to the hedonistic lotus eaters leads to heavy hangovers and a reluctance to continue at all. All the while, unfavourable breezes mean that Odysseus’ intended destination of Ithaca remains tantalisingly out of reach. Despite these trials, Odysseus eventually returns home content. Anyone who has chartered for any length of time can relate to this. Anyway, one of the beauties of Greek myth is that many of the sites exist – here is a sample of some highlights from the Odyssey:

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Ithaca – Dexia Bay and the Cave of the Nymphs (N38.371506 E 20.700609)

The most obvious starting place is, of course, going to be where Odysseus first washed up after all those years away. After many years of bickering, the general – although of course not universal – consensus is that this was Dexia Bay which, in Homeric times, was the port of Forkynas and is also known as Phorcy’s Bay (N38.22.2710 E20.42.2044). While this is no longer a port, it’s still an appealing anchorage.

Not much has changed since Homeric times and you approach as if in a dream, passing under the shadow of Mount Neriton and its dark, pine covered slopes. Simply follow the coast around until you pick up the distinctive egg shaped island of Kasturbo and then turn to starboard. In truth, although Dexia looks well protected – as Homer suggests – lying as it does in the lee of Kasturbo – the afternoon breeze does have a nasty habit of funnelling in here and making life a bit uncomfortable. Nevertheless, in the glassy calm of an Ithacan morning, it’s a beautiful spot to drop the hook. Just those clearly defined headlands and then to shoreward a white, pebbly beach with a single taverna. The approach is straightforward with no hazards to speak of and good depths that, if anything, will