Writer Louise Atkinson joins a three-night cruise to Lisbon for a sunny city break
Stepping on board MSC Virtuosa on a grey winter’s day is like landing in the middle of a smart shopping mall. You know you’re on a cruise ship because it’s impossible to miss the boat moored on the quay, but it is a shock when the gangplank tips you into a vast, bright promenade flanked by doublestorey rows of glitzy shops and restaurants.
I’d been invited to join the ship on a short three-night sailing from Southampton to Lisbon, and I ended up spending quite a big chunk of my time in that galleria. When you’re on a floating hotel that’s the length of three football pitches with 18 decks, five swimming pools, an aquapark, two theatres, 10 restaurants, 21 bars and a full-size basketball court, it’s easy to get lost. I did many times.
My method was to find my way to the shopping street that runs through the middle of the ship and take it from there: if the Hola Mexican cantina is on my right, then I’m heading towards the theatre or the spa at the front of the ship, but if Bulgari handbags, designer watches and perfumes are on my right, I’m on my way to the gym at the back.
At night that same promenade is transformed into a buzzing street party with DJs and pro dancers. It’s all gentle, inclusive stuff – more ‘dad dancing’ than tango, with revellers of all ages making space for happy punters throwing hand jives from the comfort of their mobility scooters.
At a time when flight delays and cancellations are making holiday planning a nightmare, I had thought sailing might be a peaceful, environmentally friendly way to get to Lisbon. Virtuosa has been specially adapted to be one of the most environmentally sound ships at sea, and there’s certainly a lot to be said for skipping all the flight stress by parking your car at the quay, dropping off your (unlimited) luggage with the porters and finding it waiting for you outside your cabin when you get on board.
Cruises like these offer a packed daily itinerary of dance classes, theatre shows, quizzes, music performances and poolside games. However, if you like a bit more peace and quiet (as I do), you can pay a premium for a suite and an upgrade package called the ‘Aurea Experience’, which gives you speedy boarding, use of a blissfully quiet sun deck away from the crowds, plus unlimited access to a fabulous thermal suite. It has two steam rooms, two saunas, a salt room, two huge thalassotherapy pools, heated beds, two relaxation rooms, two aromatherapy rooms, a snow grotto and a walkthrough rain shower experience.
You can sail very cheaply, but there’s always the option to layer extras on top. If you are partial to a cocktail (or two) there are drinks packages on offer, and the foodies I met were happy to pay extra for various dining packages that allow you to eat at one of the fiv
