NEW FOOD SERIES
SHAKSHUKA
Take time to rustle up this one-pan wonder of rich tomatoes, spices and creamy eggs, then grab some crusty bread to dip into it
‘Shakshuka means ‘mixture’ in Maghrebi Arabic, and it’s the perfect recipe for doing just that. Stir in spinach, bulk it out with chickpeas, sprinkle with feta – mix it up.
You may not be suprised to learn that a large part of the conversation in a test kitchen revolves around food. What’s your favourite herb? If you were a chocolate bar, what would you be? You know, the hard-hitting stuff. The age-old debate is always: are you a breakfast, lunch or dinner type of person? And if I’m honest, I can never truly decide. I want the comfort, speed and sense of accomplishment that comes with each of those meal times respectively. The best question would probably be: what’s the perfect meal for any time of day? For that, I would answer shakshuka. Easy? Check. Adaptable? For sure. A recipe that works as well in the AM as in the PM but looks and tastes showy while still being affordable? Sounds like a bit of me.
Funnily enough, you’ll often find it on a brunch menu, the generosity and mix of simple ingredients easily pleasing a crowd. However, hidden amongst a bottomless offering of mimosas, it’s easy to dismiss its deep history. Its origins are debated by food historians, with some pointing to Yemen, Tunisia, Libya and wider Ottoman North Africa, after the arrival of ‘New World’ foods such as peppers and tomatoes around the 16th century. What is known is that North African immigrants brought a version of shakshuka with them when settling in Israel in the 1950s, where the dish’s popularity flourished. It’s a brilliant example of immigrant food living on and being loved by other cultures.
Tomatoes are key, and using the right ones can make or break the dish. In sunnier climes, fresh, ripe toms are the go-to, as used by shakshuka aficionado Yotam Ottolenghi in his book Jerusalem. The problem is, in the UK tomatoes aren’t much to sniff at outside of summer. Enter the tinned varieties, which do a good job of holding their own – any chopped variety will do, but paying a little extra for good-quality tins will really make a difference, the pricier ones usually being less watery. Eggs are important too, but it’s more about how you cook them. Sorry runny-yolk dodgers, we’re after soft and gooey, so a low heat and a keen eye on the clock will ensure they don’t overcook.
Garlic and onion are typical additions, while J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, a consultant at food website Serious Eats, adds olives for a salty hit. I like adding charred red peppers for depth of flavour, though if you go green they’ll also add a pleasing bitterness, if that’s your jam. Spices can vary, too – smoked paprika and cumin are common, and the Hairy
