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THE COTSWOLDS
Afternoon tea fit for a queen in opulent historic surroundings, plus a spa under the stars
Easing into a plush velvet sofa in front of the fireplace to take afternoon tea in the Tudor Great Hall at Ellenborough Park, I can’t help thinking I’ve drifted onto the set of Bridgerton. With its vaulted ceiling and dark oak-panelled walls, the room would make the perfect backdrop for a TV period drama.
This 15th-century manor house is steeped in history. There are musket bullet holes in the front door from the English Civil War; King George III came to stay when he was (unsuccessfully) taking the curative waters of nearby Cheltenham spa; the house saw action as a field hospital during the second world war, and it was an Enid Blyton-style boarding school for girls up until the early 1970s.
TIERS OF JOY
Afternoon tea is a lavish – almost regal – affair, with a ‘shake and sniff’ menu of loose-leaf tea and a towering cake stand offering crustless cucumber, egg and smoked salmon finger sandwiches; warm mini quiche and homemade sausage rolls; buttery soft scones with cream and jam; a hazelnut choux bun oozing with hazelnut cream and melt-in-the-mouth raspberry macarons (£37 a head, or £65 if you succumb to some Taittinger Champagne – as we do). Everything is sipped and nibbled under the watchful eye of a life-size portrait of Catherine Parr – Henry VIII’s sixth wife, who outlived him (she’s buried next door, at Sudeley Castle).
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We’re just a few miles from central Cheltenham, but deep in rolling Cotswold countryside, with spectacular views across to the famous racecourse. If the races are on, you can hop on a direct shuttle to the racecourse helipad. But, after being shown to the boot room, we’re kitted out with Dubarry boots and waxed jackets for a properly equipped stomp around the 36 hectares (90 acres) of grassy grounds.
I’m sorry that we didn’t bring our dog, Nell – she would have loved the wide-open spaces, ‘paw spa’ area (brushes, towels and grooming goodies) and attentive staff. When I ask the concierge for a peek at the Doggie Menu (‘tapas’ bark burgers and sausage dogs for £2.50; a Sir Woofchester chicken roast dinner or fish and chips for £6 – all made with natural ingredients) he enquires about my hound – ‘A point