Take a winter road trip from Iceland’s second city, Akureyri, through a northern peninsula framed by fjords and punctuated by isolated herring-fishing villages.

If you’re driving north, be careful of the reindeer,” said Father Christmas as I sat beside him at Santa Claus’s Main Post Office in Rovaniemi. “We have 230,000 reindeer here in Finland,” he said, “bu

The Innuit have a specific word – iktsuarpok – to describe the anguish of waiting. By day three of waiting for my flight to Greenland, I am feeling a strong sense of iktsuarpok. The majority of visito

Steam rises in plumes, roaring from fissures in rocks, while around me, pools of mud bubble. The hillsides are rusted with iron ore, and dark storm clouds echo the colours of the dark-coloured earth.

As we sipped our G&Ts and watched the sun glistening on the water in the late evening, we reflected on the events that had brought us to this beautiful spot. A few hours ago, we’d resigned ourselves t

Winter has a way of slowing life down in the gentlest of ways, setting in like a quiet spell or a morning’s frost. Days feel softer and nights longer, the darkness illuminated by the warm glow of ligh