Don't fit into the standard sizes? Need to alter a garment? Technical Editor Sarah Taylor gives you the long and short of it
WORKSHOP
The great thing about sewing your own clothes is the ability to adjust them to fit your unique body shape. If you know you have longer or shorter legs than standard, for example, you can adjust your sewing patterns to accommodate this while they are still in paper form.
You can use the original pattern pieces as a guide to measure against yourself to see where you might need to add or remove length and then make a simple adjustment to them.
ESSENTIAL KIT
■ Your pattern pieces
■ Blank paper
■ Paper scissors
■ Sticky tape
■ Ruler (ideally a French curve or Pattern Master)
■ Pencil
LENGTHENING PATTERNS
Step one Cut out your paper pattern pieces as normal. Trace first if preferred. Step two Identify how much you need to lengthen the pattern by. For this example, we will use 3cm.
Step three Draw two parallel horizontal lines on your blank paper, 3cm (or your required amount) apart.
Step four Draw a line perpendicular to these lines through the centre. 01
Step five Find the Lengthen/Shorten line on your pattern piece and cut through it, making sure there is a grainline running vertically through it. If there is no grainline, draw a line perpendicular to the Lengthen/Shorten line before cutting.
Step six Place the top section of the pattern piece with the Lengthen/Shorten line on your top horizontal line. Make sure the grainline is placed on your vertical line. Tape in place. Step seven Take the bottom section of the pattern piece and place it with the Lengthen/ Shorten line on your bottom horizontal line, again, with the grainline placed on your vertical line. Tape it in place. 02
Step eight Use your ruler to connect the lines between your pattern pieces. You may need to “true” the pattern pieces to create a smooth line as there is likely to be a little step where the pieces no longer line up. Use a pencil to draw in a smooth line between the two edges. 03
Step nine Use your paper scissors to cut out your new pattern piece. 04
SHORTENING PATTERNS
Step one Cut out your paper pattern piece as normal. Trace first, if preferred. Step two Identify how much you need to shorten the pattern by. For this example, we will use 3cm.
Step three Find the Lengthen/Shorten line on the pattern piece and draw a line parallel to it, 3cm (or your required amount)
