TIPS & TRICKS
Jeans shopping can be rough – so why not make your own instead? Get the handle of denim with our top tips and tricks for working with this tough fabric.
Sophie (she/her) is a craft writer and embroidery artist who lives with her husband and four cats. She loves dressmaking and collecting way too much fabric.
1 USE DENIM-SPECIFIC NEEDLES
Denim is tough and can bend or even snap delicate needles if you’re not careful. Opt for a heavy-duty needle that’s specifically designed for use on denim or jeans – these should be available from your local sewing store and are purpose-made to withstand the extra strain. They also have a special point that’s designed to easily pass through the thick fabric without snagging or ripping it.
2 ALWAYS PRE-WASH
We always advise that you pre-wash your material before you start a new project, but this is never more important than when working with denim. The fabric is often over-saturated with dye and particularly prone to shrinkage, and it can feel stiff and even slightly waxy when it’s first produced. Gently washing the denim in the same way you will the finished garment removes some of the excess dye, allows the fibres to relax, and softens them up, ready for construction.
3 CHOOSE QUALITY THREAD
As well as opting for quality needles, you should also be picky when it comes to choosing the perfect thread. Denim requires a strong, hard-wearing thread that isn’t going to snap or break easily. Several companies now sell specific denim threads – you can opt for a low-key indigo shade that’ll blend in with your fabric seamlessly (perfect for repairs) or go bold with a traditional contrasting thread, instead.
4 SECURE YOUR SEAMS
The thickness of denim can make it hard to machine sew (especially when several layers are held together) and the fabric can shift around under your needle. Prevent this by basting your pieces together before machine sewing, or using clips to secure the seams. This helps maintain accuracy and reduces the risk of misalignment.
5 PRESS AS YOU GO
Unlike more delicate fabrics, denim can typically withstand high heat and steam, so pressing as you go is a great way to keep your seams accurate and set the garment as you work. It’s also a good way to reduce bulk (the iron will compress the layers down and keep them neat), and helps achieve a professional-looking finish.
6 BACKSTITCH AT STRESS POINTS
Jeans are hard-working garments – sometimes literally, such as those worn by far
