On the next few pages you will find all the techniques that are referenced in the projects throughout the book. Here you'll find instructions on fly zips, shirring, piping, buttonhole placement, and much more
FINISHING SEAM ALLOWANCES
Zigzag stitching
This can be used to neaten the raw edges of seam allowances either individually or together. Once the seam is sewn, change to zigzag stitch and sew again along the raw edge of the seam allowance.
Overlocking (serging)
The overlocking stitch is formed of either three or four threads and neatly encases the raw edges. A four-thread overlocker will sew a straight stitch to the left, with a second straight stitch to the right, anchoring the two looper stitches that form over the edge of the fabrics interlocking them together. As you feed the fabric through the machine, a cutter trims the excess seam allowance before the stitching covers it.
Bound seam allowances
This finish is ideal when the inside of the garment might show – for example, an unlined jacket. You can use bias binding, organza or a seam binding tape. See bias binding (page 37) for how to apply this.
MACHINE STITCHING TECHNIQUES
Machine tacking (basting)
Machine tacking is a temporary stitch done in a long stitch length, usually a 4 or 5, to either tack layers together or hold something in place. It's not meant to be visible and should not replace a regular seam.
Stay stitching
Stay stitching is done just inside the seam allowance, to prevent bias-cut or curved areas from stretching out of shape while you work on them. Sew with a regular stitch length just inside the seam allowance.
Topstitching
This is stitching that is visible on the right side. Topstitched hems are sewn a foot's width away from the edge and topstitched seams are sewn a few millimetres away from the seam ditch.
Understitching
This anchors the seam allowance to, for example, a facing , pocket or lining. On a facing, it prevents the facing from rolling out. Sew the facing to the garment, then press both facing and seam allowances away from the garment. With the facing uppermost, sew close to the seam, catching the seam allowances underneath.
Stitching ‘in the ditch’
This is done directly on top of a previous seam line, on the right side of the garment. It’s a great way to anchor facings or waistbands in place, particularly if they are a heavy fabric that you don’t want to turn un
