TIPS & TRICKS
Feel fine about fastenings with our ten step guide to working perfect buttonholes, every time.
1 KNOW YOUR ANATOMY
2 MATCH YOUR FABRIC AND THREAD
Buttonholes need to withstand a lot of wear and tear, so it’s important to get the perfect mixture of fabric and thread. Sturdy fabrics like denim and leather will require a heavier thread, whilst delicate materials such as chiffon and light silk need a finer option. If possible, try to stick with a good quality 100% cotton thread, which is slightly fluffy and will fill in the shape of the fastening nice and evenly. When working with stretch material, opt for a quality polyester thread, instead.
3 USE THE RIGHT NEEDLE
Just as it’s important to match your thread to your fabric, it’s crucial to choose the right type of needle, too. For thicker materials, use a heavier needle with a sharp tip to penetrate through the fibres easily without causing damage. For lighter fabrics, a finer needle can be used to prevent puckering. If you’re working with stretch, choose a knit, jersey, or ballpoint needle that’ll glide between the fibres rather than tearing straight through them.
6 STAY STABLE
Another important step to add strength and stability to your buttonholes is to interface the fabric first. Not only does this add structure to your placket and keep the holes looking neat, it also stops the fabric from tearing at high-stress points, such as the edge of each fastening.
7 ALWAYS RUN A TEST
We always stress the importance of testing out new techniques on scrap fabric before you commit to a garment, and buttonholes are the perfect example of this. Imagine taking the time and effort to construct the perfect dress, only to fall at the final hurdle when trying – and failing – to stitch a new type of buttonhole. Always use the same fabric, interfacing, and thread for your tests as you will your final garment – it’ll reflect your project perfectly and produce accurate results every time.
4 MARK YOUR PLACEMENT
Working precisely-placed buttonholes every time is a simple way to ensure your garments have a professional finish. You could measure them out by hand using a ruler and chalk, but for the best results, use an adjustable sewing gauge instead. This handy device equally stretches out a series of pre-measured points, allowing you to mark out perfectly-even buttonholes, pleats, and gathers along any straight edge.
5 CHOOSE YOUR STYLE
Most modern sewing machine
