Countless, nameless, and wild

It’s a part of Iceland that’s off the tourist trail, but it’s brilliant for birding, writes Vanessa Wright

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It’s 7pm. There is just 5km left between me and the cod drying rack that marks the finish of this race. I’ve got a cramp in my left thigh. I’m soaked through and just about to set foot into the forest

I am lying hip-deep in a peat bog looking up at the grey, ominous sky and pondering my life choices. My backpack is so heavy with all my food, water and camping gear that I can’t actually get up. I am

In conversation, Harald is a modest, mild-mannered man and to hear him outlining his 2022 cruise is the perfect expression of that. “It was mid-May that I left Medemblik for Den Oever and then to Texe

GH ’s editor-in-chief, Jane Bruton, steps on board for the very first time