TRAIL OF THE MONTH
Looking for a multi-day hike in a beautiful part of Ireland you might never have heard of? Alex Roddie hikes the Beara Way, finding sandy beaches, colourful villages and rugged peaks
THE BEARAWAY: ATA GLANCE
DISTANCE: 209km / 130 miles
ASCENT: approx 6400m / 21,000ft
START/FINISH: Glengarriff, Co Cork
DURATION: 6-10 days
South-west Ireland is a special place. Jutting out into the Atlantic is a series of mountainous peninsulas, each with a distinct character.
Although the Iveragh Peninsula is the largest and perhaps the best known to walkers, the others have a lot to offer too.
The Beara Peninsula sits between the Iveragh and Sheep’s Head Peninsulas, accessible from the towns of Bantry and Kenmare.
Although the highest peak, Hungry Hill, reaches only 685m/2247ft, don’t be fooled; many of these mountains are extraordinarily rough and rocky.
Some parts of the peninsula have a Devon countryside feel, whilst others resemble Skye if you squint – particularly the many miles of fabulous cliff-ringed coastline.
But this is quintessentially Ireland. Villages are colourful and have a strong sense of community, the people are welcoming, and there is a sense of deep history.
Ireland’s history of rural depopulation is also very apparent; you will pass countless ruined houses along the way.
The Beara Way takes a meandering circuit throughout the peninsula, visiting many interesting spots: hills, passes, islands, secluded bays.
It’s well signposted and some sections make use of quiet green lanes and tracks, whilst others take to paths in the hills (these sections tend to be strenuous).
Options for resupply and accommodation are frequent too.
If you’re looking for 'wilderness' the Beara Way may disappoint.
But if you’re looking for a week or so in hills you’ve probably never heard of, taking side trips out to islands and quiet ocean bays and traversing an ancient human landscape rich with stories and culture, then this is one to savour.
THE ROUTE
The trail begins in the seaside town of Glengarriff (its Gaelic name, An Gleann Garbh, means ‘the rough glen’ – you’ll see why when you get there).
If you’re hiking clockwise, the first day heads straight into the hills for superb views south to Bantry Bay from near the summit of Sugarloaf Mountain (565m/1854ft).
A descent to the village of Adrigole is followed by another steep climb, and for the rest of day one there are several ascents and descents as the trail meanders around the southern flank of Hungry Hill and outlying peaks.
This is the Beara Way’s most mountainous section, though it doesn’t actually visit any summits.
A descent to Castletownbere
