Jim Perrin revisits an old haunt to reveal the real high point of the ‘White Barrier’ via Wales’ highest waterfall, a pair of ponies, pubs and ring ouzels thrown in for good measure

3 6.3km/3.9 miles/3-4 hours Ascent 760m/2493ft

JB Smith goes searching for solitude in the forested folds of the Rhinogs – and finds himself falling under the spell of Eryri/Snowdonia’s quieter side

2 10.8km / 6.7 miles / 8-9 hours Ascent 1224m/4016ft

When we visited Beddgelert last June, we left home in shorts and T-shirts following a heatwave across the UK. The sun was shining, and we were confident it would stay warm for the week ahead. So imagi

■ Distance: 6½ miles/10.5km ■ Time: 4 hours ■ ...