Whether you’re felting knits by hand or in the machine, follow Faye Perriam-Reed’s advice to get perfect results every time
FULLING (OR FELTING) is the technique of turning natural fibres into a thick fabric, by exposing them to heat, moisture and agitation. This causes the fibres to mat together and shrink, creating a dense, wind- and water-resistant fabric, making it perfect for winter woollens or bags.
The difference between felting and fulling is that felting is worked with unspun roving or fleece, which will usually be carded and combed first, while fulling is worked with a piece of knitted or woven fabric. Both produce similar results and tend to be widely known as felting, which is the term used by most designers and publications, ourselves included. Throughout this masterclass we use both terms; however, they refer to the latter process.
When considering a fibre to felt or full, it is important to choose 100% animal fibre, usually sheep’s wool as it is easily available and affordable. You can also felt with other fibres such as alpaca, camel or goat; they tend to cost a bit more, however, and produce slightly different results. Superwash wool will not felt, because it has been treated so that it can be washed in a machine without shrinking.
You’ll also want to think about what patterns you are knitting. The fulling process will hide any stitch patterns such as cables or lace, so really you’ll want to stick to stocking stitch or garter stitch unless you’re only planning on felting the piece very slightly. Colour combinations can look fantastic when fulled, though, so working a stripe or Fair isle pattern is worth experimenting with. Make sure you knit a larger swatch than usual as you’ll want to allow for shrinkage.
Needle size is a big factor, and I would recommend swatching in a few different gauges to see the different effects this can have on the drape of the finished piece. A looser-knit fabric will usually full more than a tighter one, as there is more room for the fibres to move between the stitches.
If you hold a fully felted piece up to the light, you shouldn’t be able to see through the stitches. The fibres will be very matted together, and you will be able to cut through the piece without it unravelling.
There are a few different methods of fulling which we will look at here. The two most common methods are to use a basin of lukewarm water and to agitate by hand, or to use
