Up hill & down dale
Hike through the stunning landscape of Yorkshire and Cumbria, then settle back on one of the UK’s most scenic railway lines
WORDS: Tim Walker PHOTOGRAPHY: Martin Wareham
It is flaming June. Temperatures are forecast to top 30 degrees and warnings are being issued to keep an eye on the over-65s. What better week to set off on a 100-mile walk from Settle to Carlisle?
My sensible wife, Jen, has had a better offer involving relaxation, shade and wine, but my friend, Martin, is keen to come along. He is younger than me (just) and can keep an eye on me! It is possible to double-deck the Roller Team T-Line 590 for sleeping purposes by dropping the bed halfway and making up a bed underneath using the sofa cushions, but it is a squash and a squeeze and so Martin brings a small tent to use where possible.
The Settle-Carlisle railway line passes through some beautiful countryside and is claimed to be the most scenic in England. The plan is to park on the first morning at Ribblehead, catch the 09.48 train down to Settle and walk back to the ’van.
The next day we will drive to Garsdale, catch the train down to Ribblehead and walk back to Garsdale, then repeat the process for the next five days to Kirkby Stephen, Appleby, Langwathby, Armathwaite and, finally, Carlisle.
When I first had the idea, I had assumed that I would have to devise my own route each day. Harvey Maps
harveymaps.co.uk
however, publishes a useful 1:40,000 map with a suggested walking route linking all the stations. This proves to be perfect with a little backup from our OS apps.
We set off the night before, break the journey in a small car park in Alsager, get up early and by 8am we are at Ribblehead having our breakfast, gazing out across the moor at the iconic viaduct and listening to the calls of curlews, oystercatchers and snipes. A quick gallop along the road gets us to the station on time and 15 minutes later we are in Settle station. This is a picture, painted in old-fashioned maroon and cream which, we discover, adorns all the stations along the line. The stationmaster’s window has a sign up – Back in a jiffy – whilst she helps an elderly person across the track. When she returns, we ask about weekly tickets but there are only day rovers, which are no use to us. We will have to buy a ticket each day, usually on the train.
This first day is classic Yorkshire Dales, following the upper reaches of the Ribble, sparkling in the sunshine, with hay meadows a
