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IN PORTUGAL’S WILD NORTHERN BORDERLANDS, SURVIVAL AND SPIRITUALITY GO HAND IN HAND WITH THE CHANGING SEASONS, AS THEY HAVE FOR MILLENNIA. A ROAD TRIP THROUGH ITS REMOTE REACHES UNCOVERS PAGAN FESTIVALS, AGE-OLD CRAFTS AND ROMAN RELICS IN THE COUNTRY’S ONLY NATIONAL PARK, PENEDA-GERÊS