Essential guide creating texture with pleats and tucks

7 min read

Bringing texture to fabric by manipulating the way it can be folded and pleated is the goal of many people, especially those who love raised and 3D effects

“Creating three dimensions and texture in quilting can be achieved in many ways. This month, we look at how we can sew pleats and tucks in fabric.”

– Lin Clements

WHAT ARE PLEATS AND TUCKS?

When we talk about pleats and tucks at first glance it looks like we are talking about the same thing. Strictly speaking, however, a pleat is defined as a folding or doubling of fabric, which is creased or pressed into place, whereas a tuck is a pleat that is sewn into place. In dressmaking, pleats are often arranged vertically, for example in a pleated skirt, where the pleats are secured by sewing at one (1) end. If using pleats in patchwork, they can be in any direction. Tucks can be vertical, horizontal or both.

Pleats and tucks fit well with other patchwork and quilting techniques and are an excellent way to introduce texture and a three-dimensional quality into our work. For example, an otherwise bland, unpieced border can be given a more interesting look by being pleated. The two (2) samples shown below illustrate two (2) different techniques, pleats formed and pressed directionally and sewn tucks that were ‘twisted’ by directional pressing. I made the samples using similar fabric colours to give an idea of how a sampler of different techniques could be created. Framing borders are very useful on this type of work, as they not only keep the pleats and tucks under control around the edges but can also bring a block up to a specific size.

Both pleats and tucks can be manipulated in various ways and in this article we look at how basic pleats and tucks are formed, and then go on to explore a few variations. For a wealth of information on a wide range of manipulated fabric effects, including pleats and tucks, with tons of diagrams and photos, I would recommend The Art of Fabric Manipulation by Colette Wolff.

CHOOSING FABRICS FOR PLEATS AND TUCKS

These two (2) examples of pleats and tucks are both 12in square (unfinished), including the border. They show two (2) different techniques, pleats formed and pressed directionally (left) and twisted tucks (right). The left-hand sample began as a piece of fabric 10in wide x 24in long. Pleats were formed every 2in along the fabric and each pleat was ¾in wide. A line sewn down the centre of the work allowed the pleats to be pressed upwards to form two (2) undulations. The right-hand sample began as a piece of fabric 10in wide x 20in long, with p