2 10.8km / 6.7 miles / 8-9 hours Ascent 1224m/4016ft

3 6.3km/3.9 miles/3-4 hours Ascent 760m/2493ft

JB Smith goes searching for solitude in the forested folds of the Rhinogs – and finds himself falling under the spell of Eryri/Snowdonia’s quieter side

White waterfalls, friendly cafés, forest trails, a secret castle and the shifting light on Loch Tay are just some of the reasons to visit the Scottish village of Killin. It is also an easy drive from

Lochs, glens, forests, mountains and moors. Twists, turns and elevation. The very best of Scotland inside a few hours of thrilling, scenic riding…

We arrive at the top of High Cup Nick in the North Pennines. “It’s like the world starts just over there,” comments my friend Mark. He’s pointing down the U-shaped chasm of High Cup Gill, beyond whose