A teviot grayling

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Sometimes one fish is enough, writes Richard Baker

ARE FIVE-STAR HOTELS AND grayling fishing compatible? The former is usually associated with a top Scottish salmon beat or an exclusive Home Counties chalkstream. The latter is available on club tickets bought at a hundred village stores around the country; and you can stay where you want and please yourself.

But within price is value. Rock up at Schloss Roxburghe, the German-owned plushly refurbished and expanded hotel on the banks of the River Teviot in the Scottish Borders, and you’re buying into much more than a fishing trip, although that remains the main objective.

You’ll encounter a key part of the experience (remember that word) when you first sniff the winter air, just after breakfast. His name is Eoin Fairgrieve. Many of you will know of him; I first met him almost 20 years ago. Eoin is one of life’s doers. A world champion speycaster, Scottish national angling ambassador, organiser of the Tweed Fair, angling and river ecology tutor to thousands of Borders children and top-notch casting instructor. He’s also effortlessly charming and determined that the clients he guides have a good time.

Eoin, in deep and focused, as he searches for a grayling.
Walking the dog in the pool tail above the Old Watermill.

“Hello there, Richard! How are you doing today, Andrew?” Big smile, crushing handshake. We sped off to the river.

The second enormous appeal of fishing here is opportunity. Few UK rivers are home to that grail of grayling-fishers — the 50cm, three-pounder. But alongside the nurturing Frome, Irfon, Tweed and Nith is the Teviot. About ten years ago, fly-fishing world champion Howard Croston caught a four-pounder from the river, a possible record. That prospect ensures you tie your knots diligently.

I put up a 10ft three-weight rod, an Umpqua tapered leader with a red indicator section and three bugs: two beaded Pink Shrimps, the heaviest on the middle dropper, and a beaded Red Tag.

Single and double-beaded Pink Shrimps needed in the heavy flow.
Snowdrops emerge from flood-flattened riverbanks.
Warming coffee and, later, curry chutney and pork pie. Yum!

In truth, the water was too high, and would rise from 1ft 7in to 2ft 1in during the morning. This was due to snowmelt as the air temperature rose to 8 deg C. The definition of the pools was largely lost to me, but Eoin has fished here since he was a bairn and stabbed a finger at the soft eddies and flat spots where he felt the grayling might lie. Although this is salmon spawning time, grayling fishing is permitted from December 1 until January 31, and Eoin has a good idea where you can carefully wade.

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