Fulfilling a 40-year promise to explore the Abruzzo and Le Marche regions of Italy bookended by the rugged Apennines and the beautiful Adriatic
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: Kath McMahon Stone
We had not been to Italy for three years and so were eager to get back over the Alps to the land where world-class historical artwork seems to be waiting in almost every town and village. This time we decided that, as well as visiting a few of our favourite spots and some gems we had missed on previous trips, we would venture a bit further south.
The decision was made to go to Le Marche region and then down to Abruzzo in fulfilment of a promise I had made almost 40 years ago to a friend.
After stopping off in the republic of San Marino to refuel with cut-price diesel, we wound our way over the terribly bumpy mountain roads (as my husband always says, there’s no chance of falling asleep at the wheel when driving in Italy!) enjoying the unspoilt scenery, to arrive in Urbino.
We pulled into the car park at the foot of the old town to be greeted by a joyful cry of “Inglesi!” from a young woman who was just getting in her car to leave. We waved back cheerfully, pleased to be welcomed so enthusiastically, and also to be able to bag her vacated parking spot.
Toiling up the steep brick-built paths, thoughtfully constructed with ridges to prevent slipping, to the old town on the hill, we reflected that sightseeing in Italy is certainly not for the unfit and that, presumably, the locals have no need to pay for gym membership to keep in trim. Our reward was certainly worth it, as the Palazzo Ducale alone justified the effort.
It was built in the fifteenth century for Federico da Montefeltro and became the blueprint for all the Renaissance palaces built in Europe after this. Boasting spectacular views of the surrounding countryside from the windows and balconies, the palace is filled with beautifully sculpted fireplaces and doorways, which often feature the duke’s unusual motif of an exploding medieval grenade. Given that he made his fortune as a mercenary working for the various powerful and wealthy nobles from Florence as well as the Pope, it is hardly surprising that he should choose such an emblem.
The duke’s personal study is a marvel of Renaissance craftsmanship, entirely lined with panels of inlaid wood depicting caged parrots, mandolins and flowers, as well as the tools of his trade – armaments. The provincial art gallery is also
