The distinctly different region of Spain is the wild child of Iberia
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: Janet Banks
As we crossed the Minho river, a sigh of relief escaped our lips; having twice run out of time, we had finally made it to Galicia. This area, proudly facing the choppy Atlantic Ocean, is part of Spain but much like the Basque region.
It feels a little wilder, more Celtic than Catalan, and its people are fiercely proud. We couldn’t wait to explore!
A Guarda, just north of the Iron Age fort of Castro de Santa Trega, is a fishing village with a working harbour and lovely rocky beaches; a perfect spot to stretch our legs and grab a coffee at one of the waterside bars.
The drive up the PO-552 was amazing, hugging the coast all the way. Crashing waves and sandy inlets to the left and craggy, forested hills to our right; it was definitely a driving highlight of our trip.
Our destination was Camping O Muiño, just up from the small town of Oia, with its imposing twelfth century monastery right on the coast. The campsite has an old windmill and is perched on low cliffs above the sea, and a perfect location to enjoy the stunning scenery. We were lucky to secure a front-row spot for our three-night stay and, with easy access to the beach, explored the rock pools and dodged those waves as soon as we had parked up.
Early the next morning, we enjoyed a stress-free bike ride on the multi-use path, smiling at the many pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela on the Monastic Way. Those coastal views meant many stop-offs, but we reached the pretty town of Baiona in time for coffee – with delicious complimentary lemon cake, what a treat.
There’s a historic fort (now a luxury hotel), a marina, sandy beaches, wide, tree-lined promenade and shaded winding lanes to explore. The Cíes Islands lay out to sea and excursions depart from here as well as Vigo and Cangas; they looked lovely but there were far too many white horses on that sea for me to contemplate a boat trip.
The next day saw us head into the hills behind the site to enjoy stunning views of the coastline. Strolling along forestry tracks, we chanced upon the site of an ancient hill fort high on a vantage point. The information board allowed us to discover amazing carvings on certain rocks; it was very humbling to think of people, with rudimentary tools, creating something that we could see and feel millennia later.
The next day was forecast damp to start with, so a p
