Mix sightseeing and relaxation for the ultimate winter break in Austria
WORDS: CHRIS MORLEY. PHOTOS: ALAMY, GETTY. DETAILS CORRECT AT TIME OF WRITING
Hugged by snow-capped mountains, Salzburg is as spellbinding as a fairy tale. Sandwiched between sheer rock and the milky-blue Salzach River, the old town is a swirl of turrets and domes, overlooked by a clifftop fortress. Church bells echo through squares, and the medieval streets are jammed with tall townhouses and traditional shops, topped with swirly golden guild signs. The city’s historic sights and closeness to the airport (just 15 minutes by taxi) make it perfect to dip into over a weekend. Then, when you need a change of pace, head to an Alpine spa for a luxurious pamper.
Mozart and Maria
Music is in the bones of the city. Classical fans flock to the yellow house at No. 9 Getreidegasse, where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born in 1756, and which is now a museum dedicated to the composer. Concerts and operas are everywhere, but they can be pricey. For a thrifty option, check events at Mozarteum University (moz.ac.at/en), where you can watch stellar student musicians for free.
Salzburg is also the gorgeous backdrop to The Sound of Music, and was home to the real-life Trapp Family Singers. Wind your way up the path to Nonnberg Abbey, where the film’s nuns warbled Maria. Or follow in Dame Julie Andrews’ footsteps at Mirabell Palace, where she danced around the fountains and trilled Do-Re-Mi.
To channel your inner Maria, wear a traditional dirndl with tight-fitting bodice and full skirt (locals still wear them, especially for festivals). There’s a selection to hire at Kostüme (costume.at), or you can see the craftsmanship that goes into making dirndls and lederhosen at Heimatwerk (salzburgerheimatwerk.at). and the 17th-century cathedral – it’s full of historical detail, like the font where Mozart was baptised, the gleaming barrel of salt (a nod to the mining rights that swelled the city’s coffers) and the soot-marked floor where Napoleon’s troops lit fires to keep themselves warm.
High above the cathedral sits Hohensalzburg Fortress. A funicular glides up to its formidable walls, where you can savour postcard views over the city to the hills beyond.
Eat, drink, shop
Around every corner wafts the aroma of fresh-baked pretzels and doughnuts, or the savoury hit of sausages. Historic eateries include 150-year-old Tomaselli’s, a top spot for coffee and strudel, or St Peter’s Keller, the oldest restaurant in Europe. Try Hotel Stadtkrug for a tradit
