From ice-rolling to LED masks, it seems the thermometer is the coolest thing in skincare. But does the science stack up? Or is it a lot of hot air?
Ice facials, warming masks, cryotherapy – agrowing number of influencers, TikTokers and celebs are playing with heat, cold or both to enhance their skin’s radiance, promote cell renewal and get that elusive glow. A cool new trend, yes, but is it rooted in science?
Marie Jhin, a dermatologist and author of K-Beauty Secrets, says, ‘There are many in-clinic procedures using hot and cold [temperatures] that have decades of research behind their effectiveness.’ And now, in addition to salon treatments, temperature extremes are making their way into at-home skincare regimens (think: ice rollers and skincare fridges). Here’s how to turn up the dial on your routine to score some benefits.
COLD FRONT
The use of coolness to boost your skin’s health started in professional settings to destroy lesions or soothe irritation. ‘Cold temperatures cause the constriction of blood vessels, which leads to a reduction of inflammation and swelling,’ says Naana Boakye, a dermatologist and founder of the clinic Bergen Dermatology. Take the cryotherapy facial, which uses a range of techniques to expose the skin to sub-zero temperatures.
Some popular spa brands such as Biologique Recherche also take the brrrr approach to skincare. The ingredients go through a cold-press process to ensure maximum potency. During the brand’s facial, cleansing is done with cool water and skin is massaged with cold ‘cryo sticks’ after a mask is applied. ‘This process tones, lifts and calms,’ says Haley Pavlinac, a Biologique Recherche aesthetician. Can’t make it to a spa? You can cool down at home, too.
Stash products in the fridge No doubt you’ll have seen those mini skincare fridges on Instagram, but experts say your fridge will suffice. Sheet masks work especially well when cold. ‘Use them in the morning to depuff or before an event to tighten pores,’ says Dr Jhin.
Try a roller Jade, quartz and metal rollers already feel refreshing against the skin, as these materials conduct heat energy away from you, says Dr Jhin. For extra chill, store them in the fridge overnight – don’t freeze them – then roll in the morning to reduce inflammation. ‘Roll in an upwards and outwards motion, following the path of lymphatic drainage,’ says Pavlinac.
Add a splash of cold water Like rinsing hair with cold water at the end of a shower to elevate shine, splashing skin with it can enhance your glow, says aesthetician Cynthia Rivas.
