Skin deep
To exfoliate or not to exfoliate? Exfoliation is accused of being the culprit for surging sensitivity and the phrase ‘physical scrub’ sends shudders down the spines of dermatologists everywhere, so you might be pondering the same question. But exfoliation is fundamental to skincare routines.
Exfoliating your face removes dead skin cells, typically from the upper layer of the epidermis, which reveals softer and more radiant skin underneath. This can be done via physical or chemical exfoliation. The former involves manual, mechanical techniques such as scrubs, brushes or loofahs; the latter refers to the use of acids, including AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), which penetrate deep into the pores to lift away dead cells and debris on the skin’s surface. You can also achieve deeper forms of exfoliation through medical interventions such as clinicalgrade chemical peels.
The glow-giving benefits of exfoliation are undisputed. But the rise of exfoliating hacks – not least from social media – has been blamed for an increase in secondary skin conditions such as sensitive skin or dermatitis (skin irritation). The reason? Overexfoliation. Exfoliating too often or using an inappropriate strength of acid for your skin type can damage the function of the skin barrier (the outermost layer of skin), manifesting as sensitive skin, redness, tightness and itchiness. If this sounds familiar, my advice would be to stop exfoliating until the sensitivity subsides and nourish the barrier function by using ceramide-rich products.
The right exfoliation routine will depend on your skin type and concerns. As a general rule, aim to use an exfoliating product two to three times a week – or more if the formula is gentle. I always urge my patients to adjust the frequency according to what their skin can handle – aproduct might call for daily application, but it’s okay to reduce this if your skin is becoming increasingly sensitised.
As for the chemical versus physical debate, I prefer chemical exfoliants, as I believe they’re more efficacious and le
