Flavours of the month

6 min read

Tuck into these marvellous morsels from Yorkshire

CHEF’ STABLE

Ruth, 27, joins Swinton Park as executive chef. She has worked in some of the UK’s most prestigious kitchens, including the Ritz London, developing skills in modern British cuisine. She gained three AA rosettes for the Princess on Shoreditch. Ruth moved to a house on the Swinton Estate earlier this year.

Tell us about your new role at Swinton

My new role at Swinton Park is entirely different to anything I’ve done before and not just because it’s 200 miles north of London. The produce here is second to none, with the majority of it being grown in the walled garden, foraged from the woodlands, reared on our farms or caught in our streams. Being so close to the food-chain means we have direct say in how we want the produce, for example, artichokes growing in the garden are harvested at the size we require every single time and herbs and cresses are picked an hour before each service.

First dish you learned to cook?

The first dish I remember making was a Sunday roast. I used to enjoy getting up early and preparing all the veg with my dad before going to play squash and coming back with a big appetite!

Most vivid childhood food memory?

Mum’s lasagne! It didn’t happen all too often because it was a fullday event! But it taught me the importance of patience when cooking – reducing the wine and simmering the ragu for hours, cooking out the roux properly, caramelising the cheese when baking, yum!

Most memorable meal out?

A few years ago I cycled from London to Paris for Springboard Charity as part of a group. We all decided to get a few drinks before trying to find somewhere to get dinner. After over an hour of searching for a restaurant that was still serving, we found a small back-street steak restaurant that was closing down. We told them our story and immediately, the lights came back on. Before we knew it we were sat around the table with dishes of sautéed mushrooms, steaks, chicory salads, barbecued snails. Nothing fancy, just honest cooking and the most generous hospitality. A night I’ll remember forever.

Favourite ingredient?

Garlic... wild, black, roasted!

Favourite Yorkshire produce?

Rhubarb. It’s so versatile and works well in desserts, with oily fish, cheese or chicken liver.

Your go-to snack?

Toasted and buttered malt loaf with a generous slice of whatever cheese is in the fridge. Or an apple... I probably eat three to four every day.

Ruth in the kitchen garden at Swinton Park with Susan Cunliffe-Lister, whose family owns the estate
Ruth Hansom joins Swinton Park from some of the UK’s most prestigious kitchens

FLAVOURS . . . People

Favourite wine/drink?

After being introduced to sour beers a few years ago, they’ve fast become