Damper trouble

6 min read

Project Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi

PART THREE: Our Mondeo needs a new nearside front strut, so Rob Hawkins visits AES near York to see what the job entails.

CLUTCH & DMF

Our 2010 Mondeo was barely drivable when it was delivered to AES, because we struggled to select gears. So, one of the first jobs we tackled was to change the clutch and dual-mass flywheel. This was quite involved, requiring the subframe to be dropped down to make room to extract the gearbox. We’ll be covering the clutch and DMF renewal in depth soon in a forthcoming Clutch Clinic in Car Mechanics.

The MacPherson strut is in many ways a brilliant design, enabling a complete suspension assembly to be removed from the vehicle to work on it to replace components ranging from a dust cover to a leaking damper or a broken coil spring. In some cases, the damper can be removed from the body of the strut to replace it, whereas in the case of our Mondeo and its leaking nearside front damper, a new strut body with a damper already fitted can be supplied, saving time on having to strip down the old strut.

As we discovered, the work involved in removing the strut isn’t as straightforward as expected. The main problem concerns the pinch bolt that holds the bottom of the strut to the hub’s clamp. This can seize and potentially shear, and even if you successfully manage to undo it, as we did, it’s not so easy to separate the hub and strut in situ, so we had to remove the two parts together to separate them on the workshop floor.

We survived the threat of a sheared pinch bolt and also the common problem of the strut’s top mounting bolts spinning in their captive threads. And while we were completing this job, we also replaced the front discs and pads.

THANKS TO Autovaux 01924 376003 autovaux.co.uk AES York Limited 01904 780149 autoelectricsyork.co.uk

FRONT DAMPER & BRAKES

1 With the bonnet raised, we looked around the nearside rear corner of the engine bay and realised a piece of trim needed removing to allow access to one of the strut top mounting bolts. Mechanic Pete at AES retrieved his trim tool and screwdriver and got to work.
2 The scuttle trim panel was also in the way of accessing one of those strut top mounting bolts, but didn’t need to be fully removed. Instead, Pete extracted a couple of plastic trim fastenings so the panel could be lifted up.
3 We could now access all three of the 10mm mounting bolts for the top of the strut, so sprayed over them with penetrating fluid, then carefully tried to slacken each one. Pete warned that the captive sections that the bolts thread into can become loose.
4 Raised on a two-post ramp, we looked at what needed to be detached from the strut to be able to remove it. Pete recommended removing the strut and hub together to be able to separate them away from the vehicle.
5 The first co
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