Navigating the good, the bad and the confusing
Hi, would you mind grabbing your skincare stash?
I’ll wait. Now take a look at the labels. You’re probs seeing a ton of words that end in ‘-ic’ (glycolic, hyaluronic, ferulic, linoleic), and yes, you guessed it, all those words essentially mean ‘acid’. But each type serves a very different purpose – some brighten, others hydrate, some even strengthen your skin barrier. We want to talk about the exfoliating kind, which, when used properly, are a literal glow-inducing dream, and when not used properly, an actual nightmare. So really, it’s best that you pay close attention…
THE THREE MAIN TYPES OF EXFOLIATING ACIDS
1. AHAs (ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS)
These tackle everything from fine lines to dark spots by exfoliating the top layer of your skin, says dermatologist Elyse Love. There are a bunch of AHAs out there; these are the five that should be on your radar.
Glycolic acid
Its molecules are teeny-tiny, so it can easily penetrate the skin. Translation: it really gets in there to loosen the glue that holds dead skin cells together, minimise the look of pores, smooth fine lines and fade hyperpigmentation. (PS: it can also separately boost collagen production.)
Lactic acid
A bit gentler than glycolic with some hydrating abilities, this is a great option for dry skin types. And it’s a go-to for those wanting to smooth rough, uneven texture.
Tartaric acid
Its larger molecules = good for sensitive skin. Also cool? Antioxidant properties that can help protect against the damaging effects of pollution and blue light.
Mandelic acid
Another solid option for sensitive types, it penetrates skin slowly to minimise irritation. Its powers include fading discoloration (such as acne marks) and having antibacterial and antiinflammatory properties.
Malic acid
A great supporting ingredient that plays nicely with other acids, it exfoliates gently while drawing moisture to your skin.
2. BHAs (BETA HYDROXY ACIDS)
The big one here is salicylic acid, says Dr Love. It’s a great exfoliator and exceptionally good at dissolving stubborn oil and other build-up in pores, making it a gem for treating breakouts. It can even help curb oil production and reduce inflammation, which is why you see it in just about every acne product ever.
3. PHAs (POLYHYDROXY ACIDS)
Aka the gentlest of them all. ‘PHAs are great for those who want the brightening and smoothing effects of an AHA but haven’t been able to tolerate one,’ explains Dr Love. They can be used as a daily exfoliator and can help boost the effectiveness of other skincare ingredients, too.
AND THE BEST ONES TO USE AT HOME
Just because you can find acids in everything
