The deep dive
Dry? Flaky? Itchy? Here’s how to decode (and treat) your haircare woes this winter
It’s easy to roll your eyes when it comes to scalp care, isn’t it?
We’re constantly bombarded with beauty solutions to ‘fix’ problems that we never really knew (or cared) about. Untidy cuticles? Dry elbows? Dull hair? When the beauty industry started throwing scalp products into an already overcrowded market, the knee-jerk reaction for most was a hard pass. But as someone who has been through the wringer with my own scalp – which has recurring stubborn, flaky flare-ups – I’ve slowly but surely had my mind changed. Hear me out.
Philip Kingsley brand president and consultant trichologist Anabel Kingsley puts it well: ‘Just as if you had a skin condition, such as acne, a scalp condition needs consistent and daily treatment to bring it under control. After all, your scalp is simply an extension of the skin on your forehead.’ Makes sense, and if you ignore an unhealthy scalp, you’re never going to be able to grow healthy hair. Moral of the story? Don’t ignore those little flakes.
But here’s where things get interesting: a flaking scalp can be caused by any number of conditions and only one of them is dandruff. So, naturally, treating the issue can be a little complicated. I asked the best experts around to shed a little light on the different causes of a shedding scalp, starting with how to diagnose them – and, most importantly, how to fix the flakes. Here’s what I learned...
DANDRUFF
What to look for: Excess oil and flaking scalp.
Tell me more: Our scalps are the perfect habitat for certain yeasts. For most people, they will never cause an issue, but for some, they can wreak havoc. ‘Itching and flaking can occur when a species of yeast called malassezia overgrows,’ explains Kingsley. And some unlucky folk are sensitive to even normal levels of yeast, which results in the same flaking and itching.
Let’s put a few misconceptions to bed. Dandruff is incredibly common, affecting 50% of the world’s population. ‘It is not contagious and has nothing to do with a lack of cleanliness,’ explains Dr Sharon Wong, consultant dermatologist, and hair and scalp specialist.
How to treat: ‘There is no cure for dandruff, but it’s a highly treatable condition and with the correct haircare routine it can be kept under control,’ says Wong. ‘Look out for anti-yeast actives such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine and ketoconazole.’ We recommend Nizoral Shampoo, £7.49, (as it’s packed with ketoconazole) followed by a rich conditioner. Then be sure to use a deep conditioning treatment such as Gallinée’s Prebiotic Care Mask, £25, once a week to soothe and balance the scalp.
