For a walk which visits quiet hills and explores post-industrial dereliction, Eryri ’s Moelwyns are second to none.

14.5km / 9 miles / 5-5.5 hours Ascent 777m/2550ft

Ascent 903m/2960ft 12.3km / 7.6 miles / 4 hours

NEWCASTLE AND MARDU CIRCULAR Level Easy Elevation gain 217m Length 6.1km (1hr 49min) Description This round-the-hill loop trail from Newcastle leads through peaceful rural landscapes and small village

■ Distance: 8½ miles/13.7km ■ Time: 5 hours ■ Grade: Challenging

Jim Perrin revisits a minor but notable hill of the Rhinogydd, in the fine company of campaigning photographer Fay Godwin and archaeologist Peter Crew