7 11.3km / 7 miles / 4.5 hours Ascent 680m/2231ft

JB Smith goes searching for solitude in the forested folds of the Rhinogs – and finds himself falling under the spell of Eryri/Snowdonia’s quieter side

AS hotel names go, this one’s a little unusual. Across Church Street, where I’m standing in the Welsh Border town of Chirk, is the Hand Hotel. Parts of it date back to 1610, during the reign of James

3 6.3km/3.9 miles/3-4 hours Ascent 760m/2493ft

When we visited Beddgelert last June, we left home in shorts and T-shirts following a heatwave across the UK. The sun was shining, and we were confident it would stay warm for the week ahead. So imagi

2 10.8km / 6.7 miles / 8-9 hours Ascent 1224m/4016ft