JB Smith goes searching for solitude in the forested folds of the Rhinogs – and finds himself falling under the spell of Eryri/Snowdonia’s quieter side

7 11.3km / 7 miles / 4.5 hours Ascent 680m/2231ft

3 6.3km/3.9 miles/3-4 hours Ascent 760m/2493ft

2 10.8km / 6.7 miles / 8-9 hours Ascent 1224m/4016ft

When we visited Beddgelert last June, we left home in shorts and T-shirts following a heatwave across the UK. The sun was shining, and we were confident it would stay warm for the week ahead. So imagi

Jim Perrin revisits an old haunt to reveal the real high point of the ‘White Barrier’ via Wales’ highest waterfall, a pair of ponies, pubs and ring ouzels thrown in for good measure