7 11.3km / 7 miles / 4.5 hours Ascent 680m/2231ft

3 6.3km/3.9 miles/3-4 hours Ascent 760m/2493ft

■ Distance: 6½ miles/10.5km ■ Time: 4 hours ■ ...

■ Distance: 10 miles/16.5km ■ Time: 7 hours ...

JB Smith goes searching for solitude in the forested folds of the Rhinogs – and finds himself falling under the spell of Eryri/Snowdonia’s quieter side

AS hotel names go, this one’s a little unusual. Across Church Street, where I’m standing in the Welsh Border town of Chirk, is the Hand Hotel. Parts of it date back to 1610, during the reign of James