Words Mark Bailey Photography Alex Moling, Freddy Planinschek
DESTINATION
Surrounded by dramatic grey turrets of rock, slithering white glaciers and sun-soaked mountain meadows, Alta Badia in northern Italy is a photogenic destination for cyclists. Those distinctive pale-walled Dolomite peaks are the beating heart of the region’s legendary 138km Maratona dles Dolomites gran fondo and the pretty 53km Sellaronda Bike Day. But this area is also home to some brutal cycling beasts, including the feared 2,236m Passo Giau.
Cyclists who explore the area have an excellent choice of village bases, from Badia, La Villa and Corvara to Colfosco and San Cassiano. But wherever you base yourself, it’s easy to pedal off for a range of high mountain adventures. The Sellaronda loop – which has witnessed heroics from Giro d’Italia legends such as Gino Bartali and Fausto Coppi – offers a stunning introduction to the Dolomite peaks, which are the dramatic remains of an ancient coral reef. And it’s worth riding all day: these mountains turn rose-red in the evenings – a phenomenon known as ‘Enrosadira’.
But from Alta Badia you can also explore other savagely beautiful ascents. The Passo Giau – described by double Giro champion Gilberto Simoni as “probably the hardest climb in Italy” – rises relentlessly for 9.7km at an average of 9.4% until the 2,236m summit. You can also battle up the Passo Falzarego, which involves a 15.9km, 913m ascent from Cortina d’Ampezzo, or a 19.3km, 1,111m ascent from Caprile. Smash the 2,320m pass around the battlement-shaped Tre Cime di Lavaredo – the finish of stage 19 of the 2023 Giro. Or climb to the 2,192m Passo Valparola – a darkly atmospheric 13.9km ascent from La Villa, with 802m of vertical gain.
June to October is the main time for cyclists to explore a region that neatly blends luxury and tradition, with high-spec hotels, spas and bike rentals, as well as rustic restaurants serving hearty mountain fodder, from spinach-stuffed ravioli to speck dumplings and apple pancakes. As the locals say: “pedala forte, mangia bene” (“pedal hard, eat well”).
Big dates
The next Maratona dles Dolomites (maratona.it), with 4,230m of ascent over 138km, takes place on 7 July 2024. The two traffic-free Sellaronda Bike Days (sellarondabikeday.com) take place in June and September.
Tours
The experienced local Dolomite
