Need an escape from the gloomy depths of February? We got together with the editors of The Good Hotel Guide To Britain & Ireland to round up choice hotels for a wintry break. At each, you’re guaranteed a warm and twinkly welcome and, after a frosty walk, some of the best food there is
THE RURAL ESCAPE
Locanda On The Weir, Porlock Weir, Somerset locandaontheweir.co.uk
COSY CREDS
Exmoor is wonderfully dramatic in winter, but while the hardy ponies in their double-thick coats are happy to chomp on gorse, walkers and bikers will find more sustaining food at this uber-boutique hotel, where moorland meets the Bristol Channel. Since 2018, Cindy Siu and Naples-born Pio Catemario di Quadri have welcomed guests at the re-invented former Café On The Weir, in a coastal hamlet overlooking beach and harbour. On cold days you can hunker down by the fire in the lounge with its Knole sofas, vintage finds, turntable, books, movies and games.
THE FOOD
Pio’s creative ways with local, homegrown and foraged produce are the big draw here. In a dining room hung with an idiosyncratic mix of artworks, guests sit down to a leisurely candlelit four or five-course set dinner, with everything from bread to petits fours made on the day. The lack of choice is part of a commendable zero-waste policy and makes dining here an adventure. You can’t be picky; just trust the chef.
Pio’s creativity and perfectionism come through in dishes such as brilliant home-cured hogget bresaola. Other typical dishes include forest broth with parmesan pudding and black fermented garlic; guinea fowl with salt-baked beetroot; roebuck with mugolio (pine-cone syrup), chanterelles and wild mustard. For dessert, maybe Exmoor honey textures or black forest chocolate bombe.
WHERE YOU STAY
There are just four rooms (five for group bookings) – so get booking… They’re all individually styled with bags of character. The bay-windowed Santa Maria room is especially spacious, with a four-poster bed.
COST
Doubles from £225 B&B (two-night minimum stay). Set menu £85 (if you have any dietary requirements, let them know ahead of your stay).
THE SPANISH RETREAT (IN WALES)
Parador 44, Cardiff grupo44.co.uk
COSY CREDS
What could be more cheering on a bleak February day than to tuck into top-quality meat, fish or vegetables flame-cooked over charcoal in an open kitchen
