Mark Diacono picks the best new cookbooks to keep you busy in the depths of winter, from a manual on breadmaking to cooking on a budget, via a thrilling tour of the flavours of Oman and Zanzibar
Recipe I can’t wait to make: Ma’ajeen – Dhofari beef in a sweet milk stew (above).
I didn’t know that…
Bergamot grows in Oman (where it’s known as sfargel) and is treated in the same way as lemon.
BOOK OF THE MONTH
BAHARI
British-Omani chef Dina Macki takes us on a journey through the flavours of Oman and Zanzibar, exploring their history and culinary influences. Chapters focus on the cuisines of the capital, Muscat, the interior of the country, the extensive coast (bahari means ‘ocean’ in Swahili) and the island of Zanzibar, as well as the author’s early life in Portsmouth. The flavours are bold and the combinations often surprising: shuwa (48-hour spiced lamb), habbar bil-tamar (date squid salad), and avocado and cardamom ice cream are among over 100 recipes. Interspersed are personal essays on identity, community, the role of food in bringing us together and understanding where we’re from, and more. A thoughtful, beautifully photographed book that will be enjoyed as much as a cover-to-cover read as a cookbook.
DK £26, out 1 Feb; photographs by Patricia Niven
A WHISPER OF CARDAMOM
The fourth book from Eleanor Ford celebrates spices and their sweet affinities, with 80 recipes for desserts and bakes. The spices – from cardamom to saffron – are used thoughtfully and delicately, reflecting the ‘whisper’ in the title. That said, the spicing is transformative: the maple cardamom ice cream with crackable chocolate, and Norwegian rizcrem (rice pudding) are a joy. The reader is aware of being in the hands of an expert, guiding you through the story of how spices shaped the modern world, offering great mini-profiles and useful pairing suggestions.
Recipe I can’t wait to make: 1730 prune and tamarind tart (below).
I didn’t know that… In medieval Europe, sachets of cardamom would be ‘tucked into mattresses to inspire ardour’.
Murdoch Books £26, out 1 Feb; photographs by Ola O Smit
EVERY LAST BITE
You may know chef and author Rosie Sykes from her excellent The Sunday Night Book of a few years ago; her latest offers recipes, tips and practical advice for cooking on a budget, while minimising waste and energy use.
As useful and timely as this may be, worthy it isn’t. Every recipe appeal
