Feasts for the senses by lerato umah-shaylor

7 min read

The food writer and broadcaster shares the dishes she makes for her family: comforting, homely recipes, packed with spice and flavour, with flavours from across West Africa, Europe and beyond

The food I cook at home.

PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON FOOD STYLING POLLYANNA COUPLAND

Food in my home is a feast for all the senses. I love food that not only nourishes my body, but also my heart and mind. I was raised by a mother who made a big deal about daily meals. Breakfast, lunch and dinner were always freshly cooked, wholesome, full of flavour but not overcomplicated. As a child my brother and I were spoiled for choice. I was always more of a rice and potato and curry kind of gal, while my brother is a soup kind of guy. That versatility of choice often meant one dish could be enjoyed in two or more different ways. This upbringing has played an important part in the cook I have become today: someone who cooks super fresh, highly adaptable meals, that can be changed according to the seasons, availability and personal choice. I cook to transport others to a different place and to transport myself back to my childhood, to cherished memories and destinations, like a nomad, traversing through time and place.

Braised pork and apple with scotch bonnet and sage

Braised pork and apple with scotch bonnet and sage

Serves 4
Hands-on time
35 min
Oven time
2 hours 30 min, plus
15 min resting

“This is hearty home cooking that will make you feel loved and comforted, even if you cook it yourself. Serve with a creamy mash or bread to soak up the wonderful sauce.”

LERATO’S TIPSYou can mash a few of the already-cooked apple wedges and stir them into the sauce to thicken it when you’re adding the second batch (step 4). When I remove the chilli (step 5) I chop it finely and mix it into a little oil for people to add at the table.

• 3 tbsp rapeseed oil

• 5 sage leaves

• 1kg boneless pork shoulder,
fat trimmed, cut into 5cm
chunks

• 2 red onions, sliced

• 1 tsp fennel seeds, crushed

• 6 large garlic cloves, finely
chopped

• 2 carrots, cut into chunky
rounds

• 300ml apple juice

• 200ml chicken or veg stock

• 150ml apple cider vinegar

• 2 tbsp dijon mustard

• 2 crisp eating apples, cored
and cut into 1cm wedges

• 4 thyme sprigs

• 1 scotch bonnet chilli, pierced
with a knife

1Heat the oil in a large hobsafe casserole, then add the sage and fry for 30 seconds until crisp. Drain on kitchen paper.

2Pat the pork dry and c


















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